BWCA Adventure | Part Two: Chill Out
Read Part One of our adventure first!
The night is supposed to dip down towards -18º, so we’re preparing for it by chopping more wood and gathering more water for hot water bottles. But everyone willingly chips in, making it a joy to work together for the benefit of all. Later, time is spent reflecting on the day as we drift off to sleep. Tomorrow is supposed to be a full day of sun and nearly 20º. We’ll see.
As I wake up, the cold feels like metal on my face. Really reluctantly, I crawl out of bed as I gotta pee. Nothing like dropping your pants in sub-zero temps. Back in the tent I grab a handful of tinder and kindling, strike a match. The pile roars to life and heat hits my face in a comforting embrace. Sitting and enjoying it for about an hour, I continue to fill the stove, hoping to warm the tent maybe 10-15 more degrees through the coldest, cold. I just want to take the edge off.
Slipping back into my bag, I slowly fall asleep watching bits of light from the stove dance across the tent. Everyone stays warm and wakes up to sun hitting the tent. Checking an app, someone mentioned that the current temp is -22º. We can see our breath even as the stove works to churn out the heat. Mugs are topped with coffee while plates filled with scrambled eggs, veggies and hash browns are passed around, steam trailing upwards.
Discussing what everyone hopes to do that day, a few decide to hang near camp and explore nearby islands. Two of us, including me, decide to take a long day trip to Cattyman Falls. It’s something I marked on my top map before the trip as a possible place I’d like to go explore. Grabbing my day pack, I filled it with a thermos of hot cocoa as well as a full liter of water, snacks, emergency supplies and extra gear - basically enough to keep me reasonably safe for an overnight on the trail.
Heading in a northeasterly direction, we pass a small group of winter campers who’d come in a few days before. They look like their headed off to explore the Thomas Lake trail.
Disappointment Lake is a very angular lake with lots of bays and a smattering of islands, my favorite type of BWCA lake. We pass by some glacial erratics, following tracks that previous campers set. A moose has been out crossing the lake as evidenced by moose droppings. Good to know that the ice will support a moose.
Crossing the first portage trail to Ahsub Lake we pause to check the map, looking to locate where the next portage will be. We have five lakes and five portages to cover. The sunshine feels good on our backs. The dramatic rockscapes with pine, aspen and birch are in dramatic relief against the sky and snow.
The next portage is at the end of a thin finger bay. It’s not overly long, but we have to break the trail covered in 3’ of snow. It’s in shade and drops down sharply to Jitterbug Lake. A “U” shaped lake Jitterbug has evidence of recent otter activity. Their track is a long slide followed by a few hops of footprints which repeats. I pause. It’s silent. No air or animal stirs. There is no outside noise of any sort. Incredible.
With most of the lakes in this area being smaller, we are soon to the next portage. It trends gently uphill before dropping down into Adventure Lake. This lake must have a few springs or creeks flowing into it as we spy a few suspicious areas that don’t look safe. We angle wildly around those and make it safely to a small bit of land that we ski over into Cattyman Lake. Not much of a portage, and it’s easy.
At the northwest corner of Cattyman Lake is our destination for the day, Cattyman Falls. A kingfisher startles and heads across the open water at the head of the falls. We take a side trail off the portage, working to get closer to the cascades. The water is churning and murmuring. The falls are mostly encased in ice but looking closely we see water cascading behind the icy curtain. The falls drop about 40’ over a series of cascades. After a while, we head back up the portage to a ledge of rock above the falls. We’d spied it as the perfect lunch spot earlier. The sun is hemmed in by a brilliant sun dog as I lay on my pack, munching on a meat stick and some cheese. I’m utterly content. I sure hope heaven has places like this.
Our bellies full, we leave this idyllic spot and begin to retrace our tracks. The navigation is easy and I never pull out my compass again. We move along quietly, enjoying the solitude and quite companionship. Travel is easy and the temps, hovering around 20º, feel warm. The portages are easy now that they’ve firmed up from our earlier tracks. We’re sure we’re the only ones to have passed here this season.
After a final pause for a snack, we take drop back into Disappointment lake. The sun has fallen further west and light, soft clouds smudge it’s edges. Our bodies feel fine, but our feet are starting to feel distance of nearly 9 miles.
Getting back to camp we’re greeted by the others who’ve had a full day of exploring the lake, relaxing and chopping a bit more wood. Changing out of my damp clothing, tonight we’re planning a fire outside of the tent. I put heat up meat that’s been pre-seasoned and open up the bag of onion and cilantro mix in anticipation for street tacos. A pile of frozen corn is put on a hot pan with butter. Once hot, I pour a homemade elote sauce on top. We all dig in as our appetites have kicked into high gear. We’re ravenous and it’s all so satisfying.
While dishes are being washed, a fire is started outdoors as the skis darken to cobalt blue, then ink. A waxing gibbous moon glows, casing long shadows in the trees around us. The tent is softly glows while a steady drift of smoke heads north from the pipe. Tonight is dessert night! Pans of pound cake piled with berries, chocolate Rolos bake over the wood stove. Once it’s warmed and melted, we each grab a spoon and eat out of the pans. A Little Brother to the Bear, tales of woodland creatures by turn of the century naturalist, William J. Long is read aloud. A very full day filled with miles of wilderness adventure.
Our final day will be the warmest. It’s expected to get near 30º by the end of the day. We’re actually worried that the trail will be to sticky as the sleds glide better in the cold. Methodically, everything is packed with the tent and stove being the last stowed. People wander around camp, making sure to leave it clean for the next campers. Extra wood is stacked under a tree, protecting it from the rain, ready for whoever needs it. Sleds are packed and lashed. We take a last group photo, trying to hold these memories deep.
The going is slow. 3” of snow has fallen overnight making the trail, combined with the warming temps, slower. We make it over the portages, with a few hilarious looking falls here and there. At least it doesn’t hurt when you face plant in 3’ of snow. Each sled has a rope “brake” trailing on it’s backside so that the person behind can help break the person in front on the downhills. With the shorter sleds, we usually hop on top and ride them downhill. Good fun.
I’m paired with my husband who has a 7’ toboggan that threatens to run away down every hill. We laugh our way though the hills as I break with my entire body weight until I can hold‘er no more. I yell that I’m letting go, and he leaps forward, hoping to out run the gaining speed of the toboggan. He’s successful about 95% of the time and a lot of laughter ensues. Luckily nobody gets hurt and we let the sled loose on the final hill as watching it drift to a stop on Snowbank Lake, our last lake.
Our group spreads out over the last mile of ice trail, everyone pushing foward thinking of the burgers we’ll be devouring soon. One by one we reach the boat landing. Gear is quickly unloaded into vehicles and we make plans to meet at Ely Steakhouse about an hour later.
We’re pretty stinky, but I’m sure it’s mostly eau de woodsmoke. Another incredible wilderness trip comes to a close and as we part ways, we make promises for future adventures together. Because while the woods create magic, so do the people you travel with.
RESOURCES
Route map including the journey to our campsite, day trips and points of interest
. Want to plan your own winter camping adventure? Our handy guide will get you going and includes a recommended packing list, places to rent gear and suggestions where to go.
Find a guide to take you from one of the gateway towns near the wilderness.
The USFS guide to the BWCA.
Please leave no trace and follow basic LNT principles. Always leave it better than you found it - we left it nice for you.
A Little Brother To The Bear. Gentle, insightful, wildlife narratives from the turn of the century naturalist, William J Long.
Pound Cake and Berry Campfire Skillet Dessert - buttery sweet, chocolatey goodness after miles on trail.
Disclaimer: Some of the information provided may not be accurate or up to date. Route and conditions change suddenly and frequently. Consult local resources such as outfitters and the ranger station before embarking on your own adventure. Careful planning and preparation is your responsibility. If you get into trouble, help may be hours or a full day away.
